![]() If that's what your needs are this bike is plenty strong and will not disappoint you. It is a full suspension cross country racing bike. It is not a north shore bike or a downhiller. It is the best for going up hills and it rocks pretty good on the downhills too. if you are looking for a great bike to thrash the x country trails of ANY extremety, this bike will easily keep up to bikes of twice the price. The comparison would be (if you ski) like trying to ski powder on sno blades. Well for one thing it is definately not made for doing drops and jumps on the north shore, and any one who attemps to do so on this bike deserves to get hurt. I also read what the other fellow is saying about how he dislikes the i drive. ![]() But, IMO I wouldn't get one, it just isn't strong enough for any jumps. Also lots of bearings close to the dirt but an interesting design with using bb bearings for the main bearings. For north shore riding they were usless and I saw a huge amount broken. I went over the handlebars and landed on my shoulder - 3rd degree separation. The third time it broke the shock mount cracked so badly that the shock detached from the back of the bike, as I was going over a jump ( hadn't even left the lip yet), the front of the bike all of a sudden flipped up towards my face, as I left the jump the back of the bike bottomed out and kicked me up. I went through one front triangle (cracked) and two rear triangles ( cracked at shock mount twice!). ![]() I had a Idrive 1.0 with Z1 and xt stuff back about 2000 or 1999 and it separated my shoulder for me. I live here in Vancouver and ride on the north shore. having lurked on a couple or three forums i cant help noticing either a lack of or total slating any time idrive (ducks again) gets a mention, they really that bad, its sat next to me as i type this should i stick my helmet on just in case, anyway feel free to rip it out of me or own up to having one, not labelled my self into a catagory just yet as when i last rode you just had a couple of bikes and pretty much did it all, fancy a free ride all mountain mix with some jumps n stuff, living in middle england free rides a bit of a joke not really a wilderness is it, anyway anone got oneĭon't know much about the new ones. This also makes chucking it round the tight stuff a joy, despite the long top tube and slightly slippery tyres.Ok here,s the deal we had a cycle to work scheme set up this year, so thru work i was able to get back to mtb,ing after a few years off, thing is work set it up with halfords instead of any of the big cycle stores so my choices were limited, after some time it seemed the idrive 5 would be the best choice i could get for the money, plus it looked pretty cool. Trouble is easy to avoid, thanks to super sharp handling from the big bar and short stem. Pedalling and rebound can slap it into the face of subsequent hits though, so remember it’s only a light XC bike and be wary of sequential boulders or big rut sections. It’s smooth on the way back down too, with the smoothly progressive shock and backward swing of the high pivot coping very well with big rock strikes. ![]() This gives superb traction feedback without upsetting pedalling rhythm, which makes it an incredible technical climber with a particular penchant for cleaning big slow speed step ups that’ll stall other bikes. The bottom bracket moves separately to the high mounted swingarm, but while there’s no obvious nod on smooth trails, there’s still a constant pedal-trail interaction. Even with the short stem, the long top tube gives loads of stretch for pulling the sky down to meet you. With the heavier duty i-Drive 5.0 taking on ‘all mountain’ duties, GT has put the 2.0 firmly in the XC camp. The use of bottom bracket bearings in the main pivots makes them pretty bombproof as long as you check for tightness regularly, but mud room is limited, even with the 2.1in tyres fitted. The 3D shock mounts are particularly crisply forged, as are the dropouts and bottom bracket mount that dangles below the rear swingarm. ![]() The terminals of the seatstays are little drilled bullets for internal gear cable routing, and the front mech cable gets an additional barrel adjuster where it goes through the seatstay plate. As you’d expect for a light XC bike, the rear subframe is a mix of skinny pipe and thin plate bridges, but there’s some really neat detailing. ![]()
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